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cutting cables

MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
edited March 10 in Modifications & Upgrades
Hi. if I cut any cables (eg. the one of the resistance cartridge) and I connect their four ends with connectors (eg 2pins crimped male/female connectors, or else better), it is feasible or do I risk that they won't work as good as before?
Post edited by Matt on

Comments

  • GandyGandy Posts: 76🌟 Super Member 🌟
    There should not be any problems as long as you choose connectors with proper maximum ratings for the current if you intend to do this for the heater cartridge. There should be some headroom for safety.
    For the temperature sensor, low connection resistance is important. Crimped contacts are usually preferred over soldered ones as long as the crimp is valid. Make sure to use proper crimping tools and maybe practice before doing the crimps for the actual cable. 
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok. What's your suggestion for the heater?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,668Administrator
    edited March 8
    I'd suggest XT30 connectors which are rugged high-current connectors with very low resistance.

    Hobby remote control cars use high-current connectors for their batteries, like Deans Connector, Bullet (or banana) plugs, or XT60 / XT30.
    Thanked by 1Gandy
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 10
    Hi Sam. Ok: the motive for modularity is in order to much more easily swap parts eventually exhausted/burned, but also 'cause I have in mind to substitute the current corrugated pipe with one 3d printed (which is part of the new cartridge shell, encasing the direct drive printing ensemble), which is 9x24 millimeters and full (no cut in one side as the current one): I thought of it as "modular" (15 cm stacks), also 'cause the printer cannot print a whole object so tall. So, the connector must be so that it would pass thru it, at least with little difficulty (perhaps I enter each wire one per time). So, which xt30?
    As you know, the other wires are: thermistor, filament sensor, two fans (one of which is connected by facility thru a 2pin jst).
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by Matt on
  • GandyGandy Posts: 76🌟 Super Member 🌟
    All wires except for the heater cartridge wires have a small cross section. I recently replaced my factory hotend with an E3D V6 for which I had to cut all wires. I wanted to be able to easily switch back to the factory hotend if something should go wrong, so I equipped all signal wires with JST 2.0 connectors. Placing the connectors at different positions in the wire harness even allows to still hide everything in the flexible tube. For the heater wires I chose a matching couple of Phoenix Contact MC1,5/IMC1,5 connectors I had lying around. They might not be the perfect choice but they are rather compact and have screw terminals and most importantly they can carry up to 8A which leaves more than enough headroom for safety.

  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 9
    Well, an mc looks too bulky to enter the new flexible tube (ok, I could always solder / crimp / screw any plugs just after I entered all bare wires in the tube: but it feels like too much cumbersome). Maybe some kinda smallest molex capable to carry an acceptable amperage? Or a dupont or a bullet connector? What about an xt30? Looking for connectors I stumbled on it.
    Post edited by Matt on
  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 9
  • GandyGandy Posts: 76🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Those appear to be JST XH2.54 connectors. Be careful to choose a cartridge matching your supply voltage. In case of the A5 that would be 24V rather than 12V. That said, if the connectors work fine for 12V they should do the job for 24V, easily. Better check the datasheet, though.
  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited March 9
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,668Administrator
    Micro 2mm bullet connectors are about the smallest you can get for high current: e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/361597485274

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,668Administrator
    edited March 9
    You can get away with JST-XH (2.54mm pin pitch) for 40W nozzle heater at 24V = (1.7A) as the XH series is rated for 3A. At 12V it would not be suitable (40W / 12V = 3.4A), but JGAurora are all 24V.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,668Administrator
    My suggestion about XT30 was more about bed connectors, as I still had "bed heater" in my head from another thread... sorry. XT30 is overkill for nozzle heater.
  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok, so I might go for a common jst-xh?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,668Administrator
    Make sure your wiring gauge is adequate, but should be ok.
    Thanked by 1Matt
  • MattMatt Posts: 122🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited July 21
    Hi, after some wating for the connectors and some trials, I could state what follows.

    1) I changed the standard naked glass bulb temperature probe with one which lodges into the hole with a screw: it is this


    It should be compatible, I guess


    to join the extremities of the heating cartridge: they melted. The cartridge passed suddenly from 90Β° to 250Β° (to be exact, the display beared a stunning 268Β°: I guess that's some mismatch due to malfunctioning of the method of connection)!!! So, "perhaps" these connectors aren't good. Though, I wonder which one were good, due I'm seeing around some cartridge that could be removed and their connectors look weaker than these (maybe the cartridge itself bears something inside which allows it to be beared by any kind of connectors?).
    Now I'm testing the machine with the extremities tressed each other, and I'm experimenting that the temperature, once I restarted the machine, appeared at 190 (evidently it went down from 250 to 190 during the previous shutting down), and that when I hit the "close" button on the display, it gradually went down to the common 35Β°, which appears by default each time the machine is fired up (I don't know whether it happens also in your case, but I always got this at startup). This made me though that this behavior seems more natural and realistic than the previous one, which started from 35 each time I fired up. This made me assume that this thermistor would be nice anyway.

    What's your opinion about the whole? And what to do?
    Post edited by Matt on
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