Model sticks to bed too well

SystemSystem Posts: 19Administrator
This discussion was created from comments split from: Model sticks to bed like a rock.


  • JamesMcc_DesignJamesMcc_Design Posts: 6Member

    I'm having a similar problem.. Initially I had problems getting the print to stick to the bed, but now that it sticks and does not come free when printing, it is not possible to remove without damaging the piece. I used the spatula that came with the printer, and tried to be as careful as possible, but the same thing has happened 4 times. I did wash the surface with alcohol before printing - but even scrubbing with alcohol left marks (which can be seen around the base)

    This image used a Brim of 4mm, 0mm distance from model. ABS material, printing at 230 with a bed of 70.
    Other attempts used raft, and no adhesion with various temps but all are ripping the face off this part. 

    Any help would be appreciated as I'd prefer to not waste more filament i possible!

    (hope this an ok place to post this since I thought it was a similar problem) 


  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,780Administrator
    I am sorry - I split your thread and put it in the JGMaker section, since even though the problems are the same, the bed base material, and adhesion behaviour with the JGMaker surface is completely different.

    ABS can be a real pain when it sticks like that. I personally use single-sided razor blades, and, with great care, use that to loosen a corner of a model that sticks like that. You will have a hard time removing the residue without something like that. The problem is the bed surface is easy to also slice through with those blades, so it can take some practice -- but do remember, the bed surface is 100% a consumable like filament.

    I would recommend instead trying strategies to reduce adhesion:
    • increase nozzle/bed surface distance (e.g. level nozzle using 2x sheets of paper, not 1)
    • Increase first layer thickness from 0.15 to 0.25mm
    • reduce first layer temperature to 230 from 240C for the rest of the print
    • reduce bed temperature from 70C to 65C.

    Thanked by 1JamesMcc_Design
  • Stephen ToddStephen Todd Posts: 281🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I'd be looking at a removable flexible build sheet - then you can remove the sheet and flex it to get the part free when it goes cold

    I print PLA on a thin film of PVA - PVA wood/fabric glue heavily diluted with 3 parts water, and rollered on with a small paint roller. When the part is cold, pulling on the part tears away the thin film from the glass bed - PVA is water soluble, so you can wet the base of the part to remove the PVA film

    I don't print ABS, so don't know if the high temperature would make a difference
    Thanked by 1JamesMcc_Design
  • JamesMcc_DesignJamesMcc_Design Posts: 6Member
    Thanks, I appreciate the help.. I tried those settings and it came off a little better, but still cracked and left a bit of filament on the bed - I'll play around with it a bit more. The flexible sheet option sounds good too!
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,780Administrator
    If the print is cracking, it sounds like the print temp is too low perhaps? What temp are you using?
  • CrasoumCrasoum Posts: 24Member
    I screwed my print surface by trying to use acetone. Don't use acetone to clean the included mat and get a sheet of glass or a mirror and print on that with ABS. 

    Also let the part cool before trying to remove it. 

    Your brim also looks way way to thin, you might want to re-level your bed and make sure the screws/nuts under the bed are fully tightened (as if they aren't, they come loose and cause a lot of fun to chase problems.)
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
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