Hot End Questions

FunInAlaskaFunInAlaska Posts: 18Member
First of all I would like to introduce myself. I am brand new to 3d printing as of 2 weeks ago when I received my first 3d printer a JG Aurora Maker Magic. I have been researching 3d printers for about 5 years was just waiting for the opportunity to get one. I got this one because of a "too good to refuse sale" so now I have been using this for 2 weeks.

It has been printing amazingly well till last evening when I was printing a second iteration of a prototype part I am developing and I went to check on it and could see a gap between the nozzle and the previous layer printed. I cancelled the print and started examining the issue. Realizing it was a clogged nozzle I attempted a Hot pull and without success I proceeded to a Cold Pull.  This appeared to work so I pulled up a file that I had previously printed with success that was a very short print only about 20 minutes.  When this was done it was very spongy and crumbly so I guess the nozzle was still partially clogged.

This morning I went at it on replacing the nozzle with a stainless steel one I had ordered with intention of replacing it anyway, and in doing so discovered that there was a large glob of plastic stuck in the hot end. It appeared the Bowden  Tube had pulled up from the nozzle. This was a great find as after I fixed this it completely solved my issue with low or no extrusion. Now I am having a problem with stringing I was not having before but I am sure with some trial and error I can fix that in slicer settings. 

My questions revolve around options for future upgrades of the hot end. I have  so far only printed with PLA and TPU with pretty good success wit both so far. However I do intend to print a decent amount of PETG in the future. As I understand the PTFE is not suited as well for the higher temperatures  of PETG and an upgrade to an all metal hot end is recommended for ongoing printing of PETG.  So without spending 1/4 of what I paid for the printer can anyone recommend an all metal hot end to replace the stock assembly? Since I have already purchased some replacement nozzles I would like to make sure that it does still use the same nozzle as the stock.

Comments

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,695Administrator
    Welcome @FunInAlaska :smile: hopefully some other people can comment here with some suggestions :+1:
  • FunInAlaskaFunInAlaska Posts: 18Member
    Thank you. I did order a hot end since it was cheap and "looks" very similar to what we have on the Magic.
    I figure I should be able to  use the already existing heating element and thermistor and just replace the heat sink, heater block and heat brake, then hold on to the Heater and Thermistor that comes with the kit and adapt them for the shorter leads and have them as spare parts.
    Maybe it will work, maybe not we will see.

    What I got is advertised as:

    AZSOLO 3D Printer Parts 3D J-head CR10 Hotend Extruder Kit For CR10 CR8 CR-10

    and I ordered Silver all metal with all metal throat.

    It is supposed to be delivered sometime by August 7, 2020
    Good thing I have patience.
  • Euzziel EclarinalEuzziel Eclarinal Posts: 15Member
    I'd just replace the whole hot end. Buy something that is for ender, itll fit. Just need to route the wire since its mounted on the other side. I find that jgmaker heat block and heat throat a little bit leaky. 
    Ender 3/pro3 matches the screw holes for jgmaker gantry
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,695Administrator
    edited May 28
    > Ender 3/pro3 matches the screw holes for jgmaker gantry
    I've seen a few people say this, but I have not seen anyone demonstrate this is definitely the case?
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • FunInAlaskaFunInAlaska Posts: 18Member
    The ones I have seen say they are compatible with Ender3 as well as CR-10 . Having neither of these machines myself I suppose I should assume the X axis carriage is the same footprint on both?
    Whenever mine comes in later this summer/fall I will definitely post my results. My intention will be also to find appropriate connectors as I do like the daughter board that JG uses on the housing of the hot end rather than having to sort out wires through the harnesses.
  • Euzziel EclarinalEuzziel Eclarinal Posts: 15Member
    Samuel, yes. Im using an ender 3 hot end on my printer. Matches the whole thing. Only difference is that the wires are located on the othercside of the heat block which can be solved by quick weave through the fans does the trick. Did it when i have the stock box cover, worked really well
  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 20Member
    Ender 3 MicroSwiss clone on mine, no issues with mounting.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • Euzziel EclarinalEuzziel Eclarinal Posts: 15Member
    Was going for mocroswiss for its all metal built. But tried the regular ender 3 hot end just to test the mounting. Considering microswiss for next upgrade
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • y2kats65y2kats65 Posts: 9Member
    Magic has a 24v 30w heater for the hot end.  Ender uses a 40w hot end.  Would that be a problem for the power supply?
  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 20Member
    Nope, I have zero issues with the 40W heater. Just have to PID tune.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • m0avm0av Posts: 2Member
    Can we use the MicroSwiss all metal direct drive unit?
Sign In or Register to comment.