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Feeder problems ? Underextrusion

Charlotte BtnCharlotte Btn Posts: 6Member
in JGMaker Magic
Hi fellow users of JG Maker,  :) sorry to arrive there with my mechanical issues, but here we are. I have been printing with my JG Maker for a month or so, did some successful PLA prints. I experience trouble in my prints since I changed filament (brand & color), mainly under-extrusion, half completed prints...I suspect feeder problems since on day, the plastic tread BROKE between the two feeder wheels. I noticed that when it printed successfully, the wheel above the knurled wheel is moving along the thread, helping it. I don't know if this is a consequence or a cause in my problem, but this wheel (the non-knurled one) is struggling to move, and now even completely not moving, so the filament isn't feeding at ALL.



Before, I could starts prints and they eventually failed, but since today all my prints start dry. Even when I changed back to my original brand of PLA :/ I tried pushing filament in, unscrew and re-screw feeder parts and wheels...I thought it was a mechanical problem involving the feeder, but the unloading works fine when it comes to pushing the thread backwards. So technically the wheels work. I then thought about a clogged nozzle, but the purge works fine too. Any thoughts ? ):

Comments

  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 21Member
    I suggest unscrewing the bolt holding the tension arm to the roller assembly, the plastic on mine cracked from the strain and couldn't hold the filament to the extruder gear. Replaced with an aluminum version and have had no issues in that regard since.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • Charlotte BtnCharlotte Btn Posts: 6Member
    I figured this was in part because of this bad guy...The tension on that piece seems to play A LOT in the equation. Well I'm gonna work on this. You can replace it with any kind/brand of extruder arm ?
  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 21Member
    This is what I'm using.


  • Charlotte BtnCharlotte Btn Posts: 6Member
    thanks a lot for your answers, I'm still open on advices, but i'm gonna try that at least
  • FunInAlaskaFunInAlaska Posts: 18Member
    I was also experiencing under extrusion after I switched filament the first time. I printed probably about 400g worth of prints absolutely wonderfully. I have done a lot of chasing problems. Clogged nozzle, and fixed that but in the process of changing the nozzle found the bowden tube was not properly seated in the hot end which left room for a blob to form between the bowden tube and the nozzle, fixed that, then discovered the extruder was not closing tight enough to bite the filament to feed it accurately enough, I found that a work around on that at least till my replacement aluminum extruder arrives is just to give it a squeeze closed this seems to help it for now.  Also, when you start a print make sure you give yourself a couple skirts. While the printer is laying the skirt go to the menu on the printer into TUNE and scroll down to flow and make sure it is at 100% somehow mine was set to 94% 
    Thanked by 1Charlotte Btn
  • Charlotte BtnCharlotte Btn Posts: 6Member
    After a bit of cleaning and thinking, it seems that my nozzle is okay and my wheels too. It looks that it's clogging somewhere in the bowden, the filament can't slide properly through it. I'll try to clean/change the bowden and see.
  • FunInAlaskaFunInAlaska Posts: 18Member
    I just discovered that my original Bowden tube had a kink in it where it goes into the fitting at the extruder.  I just changed out my tube anyway when I also upgraded my extruder to an all metal extruer. Since those things I have had zero problems with under extrusion.
    Thanked by 1Charlotte Btn
  • Charlotte BtnCharlotte Btn Posts: 6Member
    sooooooo after a few shenaningans I changed my bowden AND my extruder part fort the red metal one, turns out it doesn't change anything and it even works worse (now I experience tickling, yay) so after another closed inspection I think my thread stops freely moving in the metal part that links the extruder and the bowden. How, I don't know, and I'm a little fed up with it at the moment...
  • printcrafterprintcrafter Posts: 3Member
    Hi guys, I have also had problems with the filament feeder. I changed it for one from amazon (aluminum red color) like the one you mention. It tightens the filament perfectly, but in the first layers the damn "Click" sound is not removed. In my case it seems that it is because the filament quantity that sends the extruder is too much and it needs to go back, then the "Click" sounds. I have calibrated it perfectly, I have corrected the steps, updated the firmware with Pronterface, I have tried to print at less speed 50mm / s and more 70mm / s. I also tested various extruder and bed temperatures. None of them have solved anything at all.
    I send a message on the JGaurora support contact form and no one answers ...

    At the moment the impressions come out well, I hope that in the future the engine will not break.  If someone could tell us something it would be of great help.
  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 21Member
    edited June 2020
    The clicking is typically the nozzle is too close to the bed in this scenario. I've found that I need more of a gap between the nozzle and the bed than a piece of paper. The clicking is caused by the pressure in the extruder being greater than the flow, because the filament is unable to come out at the proper speed.
    Thanked by 2printcrafter Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by sirhcwolf on
  • printcrafterprintcrafter Posts: 3Member
    Hi, I can't believe it was that simple. All manufacturers, including this one, recommend using din a-4 paper or a similar one. Well no, this printer needs to be leveled with something thicker. I tried a credit card first, but it's too high. In my case I used a 0.5mm plastic sheet. Now it is perfect. DAMN CLICK does not sound, the filament feeder gives no more problems.

    I attach a file to test the leveling of the bed, it prints simple one-line squares on the bed.

    Very grateful to sirhcwolf. My best wishes for you.
  • Charlotte BtnCharlotte Btn Posts: 6Member
    SOOOOO after some mooore shenaningans, my printer works like a charm again. It appears that it was not a mechanical problem, but a mix of bowden damage and nozzle damage. So I changed my bowden and my nozzle. Moreover, I also found that the main cause of my underextrusion was because my bowden was not enough deeply inserted in the hot-end part, thus forming a clogging melt mess in that space left. So basically clean your bowden and put it thoroughly in, and clean regularly your machine, and don't change type/brand of filament...Learned this the hard way. Incredible how those machines are so advanced yet precarious at the same time

  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 21Member
    Glad you got it fixed! I've learned the hard way to do a nozzle change at 250C because of leaks caused by that. It's astounding how little error there can be with the tube.  
  • y2kats65y2kats65 Posts: 9Member
    edited June 2020
    I found that if I adjusted the gap to 0.1mm on all four corners, the nozzle will be rubbing the bed in the centre. This caused the clicking sound when it is printing the first layer and around the middle of the bed. Basically, I think the bed is not level and 0.1mm gap may not be enough. 
    Post edited by y2kats65 on
  • sirhcwolfsirhcwolf Posts: 21Member
    If you're using a gap feeler tool or the like, it has been my experience 0.25 gives a good first layer. Anything under .2 is too close and the extruder clicks.
  • printcrafterprintcrafter Posts: 3Member
    A few days ago the damn "click" sound in filament feeder returned to my life. I have found that when using the original bed, if you fold it to remove the pieces ... the center of the bed curves outward. It is very subtle, but that causes the Click again. I folded the bed back to the reverse side and the "click" left.

     Conclusion for me:

    • Calibrate the bed with 0.5mm paper or plastic.
    • Observe that the center of the bed is straight.
    • Buy a glass bed in the future.
  • m0avm0av Posts: 2Member
    I have the same disease, offsetting the bed calibration to 0.2+ means the filament doesn't adhere to the surface. Yet I still have the click of the cogwheel. I have this machine for a year now, replaced about everything but the motor and hot-end, I have not found solution.
  • CharlotteBtnCharlotteBtn Posts: 1Member
    Hey guys it's me again ! Just back here to provide some insight and diagnostic to the extruder problem. I started some prints in the past week and I again had underextruded prints, clicking sound and stuff. Once, I started a print that worked perfectly but the filament ran out and as soon as I put a new spool in, it started underextruding again.

    I then noticed that it was linked to...the filament SPOOL itself !

    The spool holder on the JG Magic is actually too close to the extruder, and if the spool is new and too big, it will create too much tension for the extruder to handle and the filament won't go in ! I removed the spool from the holder and let some filament loose for it to enter, and my printer works perfectly !
    I will probably remove the holder from the printer itself and screw it on the wall or something so the filament can have a little more space to unwind before entering the extruder. I believe there is a mod on Thingiverse to put an holder on the top on the printer.

    Hope it can help some of you !
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
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