Order of calibration

PrintBigPrintBig Posts: 15Member
Does anyone have any insight as to the order of calibrations/order of precedence you should calibrate/setup your printer? Out of the box, no upgrades just firmware, straight to printing, how would you calibrate your printer?

my thoughts in order.
1.e step calibration
2.level bed (bed screws first then mesh)
3.z offset from bed calibration (first layer:good enough at first. Just get it to stick)
4.temperature tower
5.z offset/first layer (temp dependent) now dial it in
6.xyz step calibration (temp dependent) would you use the cube method or ruler method (measure width of cube)
7.flow/extrusion calibration (temp dependent) would you use the single wall cube method (measure thickness of each wall)

I have also been reading that there are hip-picket formulas you can use to dial in for fast printing (a would-be scaling of settings if you want to print faster) BUT I’ve not tried this yet.

Please I am interested in others opinions. I’m still new at 3D printing and still have a lot to learn. Maybe my list is all wrong. Maybe I’m out of order and there’s a more efficient/accurate way of calibrating my machine.

thank you all

Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches


  • CrasoumCrasoum Posts: 24Member
    You'll want to make sure your bed screws are tight and level your bed before you do anything honestly, from my experience that is where most my issues personally came from. You need to make sure the nuts for the bed are tight against the bed, and then the 2nd set of nuts are tight against the first.  Also make sure all your connections are tight to the motherboard and motors/parts. Sounds dumb, but easy things to overlook can make head-scratching problems. 

    Then you'll want to setup your Z end-stop to where you have enough to level your bed, but not so much you have your bed beyond the length of the spring adjustment. You can also print spring guides to make tighter springs so your bed stays level longer. 

    Then I'd do the E-step stuff, temp tower, print calibration prints as long as possible to measure as accurately as your tools allow. 

    2 wall cube measurements tend to be suggested, as it's rare for you to print single wall vase items, and with the 2 wall method you can also make sure your overlap is good enough to have adequate cross sectional strength but also have accurate prints without over/under extrusion. 
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