β€Ί β€Ί

JGAURORA A5 - A very disappointing 3D Printer

JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
(Edit: The printer is not bad actually. Maybe not that friendly for beginners. The good thing of having a JGAURORA A5 is, it has a very good community. Shout-out to Samuel Pinches and DaHai.)

First of all, I always get error when I want to post something at this forum. And it end up when I finish typing, the error alert pop out, it hinders me from copying my passages as well. It seems like everything about me and JGAURORA is BAD. Sigh.

Sorry to say that in my opinion, those review videos are kind of fake, perhaps they got paid or what. I get really really disappointed with my JGAURORA A5. Tonnes of major issue. I have done a lot of setting in the slicing software Cura but none seems to be helpful. 

- For my long printing, it stop itself for nothing, loud beep, AND unable to resume (resume error). Every temperatures is good and the filament is fine. Disappointing.
- The first brim line will never stick. At first I thought it's my bed leveling, but then I realize that it's because the extrusion of filament is inconsistent during first brim line printing.
- Stringing and stairway-like tail. This make the whole 3D printing looks ugly. Retracting speed is 74mm/s. I have tried retraction distance from 5.5 up to 15. None of these setting solve the stringing and tail problem.

Anyway, thanks to those who help in creating firmware and tutorial on uploading firmware and bed leveling. Perhaps they are not get paid for doing all these, but those who reviews and say that this printer is good, seriously they disappoint me, A LOT. Any feedback is welcomed. 
Post edited by JayJoe on


  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    haha... you ok there?
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Haha. Hi Samuel Pinches, I got really fed up. This forum kept pop out error. And I had typed this post three times. Sigh.

    Thanks for all your help all way. Your video ad effort are really good and I extremely thankful to you.

    Today is my 8th day of having JGAURORA A5, issues everyday and I decided to give up. Consider I am bad luck enough to get such a bad 3D printier.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    edited June 2018
    Sorry... this is my first time setting up a big forum, and I will try to investigate your posting problem. We don’t need more headaches!!

    1. Random stopping
    this can be troubleshooted using pronterface.

    2. Brim line adhesion
    this is fairly normal... this is why we have a prime section in the start gcode, because it takes a little while for the flow to become consistent. But the A5 is definitely more picky than other printers about bed adhesion. I put some some tips on the wiki about bed adhesion, if that might help.

    3. Oozing and stringing
    This is the biggest problem, and it is frustrating for me too. I have not been able to solve these issues. I cut my Bowden tube a little bit shorter, which helped a bit with reducing stringing, but I have not been able to reduce the stepping stairway ooze effect. I own simplify 3D and I suspect this might produce better results... I have not had time to try it.

    Regarding the reviews, it is difficult, because there is a conflict of interest. Reviewers often receive printers for free, and/or receive commissions from people who buy from them. Making videos is expensive and time consuming, and I think people should be rewarded for their efforts. BUT...

    It really comes down to integrity on this one. Some reviewers only state the positives, and those people should be called out. I hope that my review of this printer made it clear that I did not think it was perfect. These printers are budget printers, and they are over promised by many reviewers, who set the expectations far too high.

    The A5 design is a compromise - the large size, and low cost are only possible because of the compact i3 design. Which then requires a long Bowden tube... causing the stringing problems.

    This is why I personally don’t like the i3 design, as it doesn’t scale up well. It’s best for small printers, but here JGAurora has tried to push the limits. With some success, and some shortcomings.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Samuel Pinches, it's ok and please don't say sorry, instead, thanks for setting up this forum. Because I get a lot of helpful knowledge and replies from you and the community. I saw your effort and kindness. 

    And regarding number 2. Brim line adhesion, I have tried all the setting but unfortunately, not solving the problems. Also, the first layer of CIRCULAR shell will never stick to the bed. I am not sure why,
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    Maybe you could post a video of the first layer so we could see?
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I wish too. But unfortunately, I keep getting error, even when posting with photo.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    edited June 2018
    Are you able to tell me what the error message says? Large photos seem to cause problems sometimes :disappointed:
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • HevilpHevilp Posts: 136🌟 Super Member 🌟
    You got original stepper driver?
    Be sure to set the Vref for the extruder as low as u can, maybe at 500mV.

    Like Sam said, I cut my bowden down to 30% of the original length.
    I never had stringing so hard...

    Bed adhesion: I had it too. Use glass cleaner for every print, it is like a wonder!
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    edited June 2018
    @Hevilp I think 0.5-0.6V is a good Vref for the extruder stepper driver, but I probably wouldn't say "as low as you can".

    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • HevilpHevilp Posts: 136🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ye maybe, I still had problems with 600MV. It is just a hint :)
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    edited June 2018
    Overheating problems at 600mV with the stock A4988? I say this, because I don't think these problems are caused by driver overheating?
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • HevilpHevilp Posts: 136🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited June 2018
    My stepper motor went to hot and filament began to melt and could not be pushed anymore, with the stock A4988, thats why put a TMC2130 on E0, too.
    Post edited by Hevilp on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    Ahhh now I understand the problem you are describing with the high stepper current...

    The other thing to check is that the extruder teeth are not clogged up.

    Its also been suggested to provide a small amount of lubrication inside the PTFE tubing by wiping a section of filament with canola oil.
  • HevilpHevilp Posts: 136🌟 Super Member 🌟
    If my direct drive works, I don't need it anymore ^^, hope so.
  • djauroradjaurora Posts: 35🌟 Super Member 🌟
    OMG, its true, or its a my dream? Where are my money from JGaurora for saying - it is good printer? 
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited June 2018
    Samuel Pinches, I have uploaded videos and photos to my Google Drive. Hope you don't mind. Thanks for willing to help out. I appreciate. 

    This is the STL file : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e4njTzGO60sChTOFE8y9AtVgzihTzBnE
    In Ultimaker Cura:
    - Infill Density: 10%
    - Printing Temperature: 205C
    - Build Plate Temperature: 65C
    - Retraction Distance: 12mm
    - Retraction Speed: 75mm/s
    - Print Speed: 60mm/s
    - Outer Wall Speed: 10mm/s
    - Inner Wall Speed: 10mm/s
    - Initial Layer Print and Travel Speed: 10mm/s
    - Brim and Speed: 10, 10mm/s
    - Regular Fan Speed at Layer: 4
    - Generate Support Overhang Angle: 89 degree

    This is the results:

    As you can see, the stringing is so much. And I am giving myself face-palms every time I look at the formation of 'stairway'-like stringing.

    And you will notice that the very first layer is ugly, please watch this https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vuR3eQN1KKtOeKk_1p2Sa9VJKmwe1TDY . The first layer circles / circular walls just won't stick to the bed !!! 

    And I experience 3 times nonsense printing pausing / stopping for no reason, and all 3 of them never had successful resume. It's a disgusting shame.


    And this is another printing I am doing now:

    The nozzle is busy going round and round for many times, and the extrusion stepper motor is not moving, which means it is not printing. Why is this happening? Is she trying to melt the printed objects?
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by JayJoe on
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    djaurora, just see all my uploaded files, then you will know how 'good' it is. Anyway, JGAURORA has a good customer service, they response to me fast and I already told them my problem and they ask me to add them in skype. But I haven't add yet because I am too busy doing printings. 
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    edited June 2018
    Aha! Can you please check your grub screw on your extruder motor toothed gear? Perhaps the gear is slipping on the motor shaft?

    Edit: can you try and put a black line across the entire gear diagonally, to see if the inside is slipping?
    Thanked by 1JayJoe
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hi Samuel Pinches,

    I have checked the grub screw and it's fine. Sometimes I heard some sound of gear slipping, and I have tried reduce the retraction speed and the result is still the same.

    Anyway, for better bed adhesion, I decided to use back kapton tape and it works. The so-called black diamond platform isn't that good in term of adhesion, the only good thing is it pops out the print easily once it's cooled. 

    Also, I am still getting a lot of stringing and 'stairway' no matter how I tweak the retraction distance and speed. 

    And you are right, the Bowden tube is too long, it causes my filament loading to stuck and I have to adjust the tube a little bit. I wonder why JGAURORA doesn't realize about this. I wanted to cut short the Bowden tube but I am afraid of doing any modification to the printer. Is it tough to cut / modifiy the tube?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,840Administrator
    I just unthreaded the bowden tube from the rest of the cables, and then made sure it had enough room to move freely still. I cut off 10cm and that helped a little. Push down the black ring on the tube connectors to release the cable.

    Could be the motor slipping? Can happen if the vref on the stepper driver (sets the stepper motor current) is turned too low.
    Thanked by 1JayJoe
  • chilman408chilman408 Posts: 12Member
    I'm just reading this...

    I just purchased the A5 myself.  But I think your retraction distance is too much.  Just based on my previous experience on a Wanhao I3, this will build up a lot of pressure within the extruder.

    Have you tried lowering the temperature of your prints (by doing smaller test prints)?  It wouldn't surprise me if the extruder temperature is not calibrated right.  
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    hi chillman408,

    Hmm, if I reduce the retraction distance, I am getting far worse stringing. 

    Yea I did cube printing. Tried extruder temperature of 205 and 210, unfortunately, nothing helps.
  • chilman408chilman408 Posts: 12Member
    Have you tried lowering to temperature to 180C and try a small test print (with retraction slow to below 60mm/s and <4mm)?  The extruder temperature could be that much off.  

    Stringing is a property of the material that may not be resolvable by retraction. 

    Going back to my i3 experience, retraction >6mm will eventually give you a clogged nozzle.  
  • DennisHobbsDennisHobbs Posts: 2Member
    I have had a few printers now and have found a really good solution for bed adheasion, firstly get it level, that goes without saying THEN  try 3D Lac, it may seem a bit expensive but just a puff of this on the glass bed works a treat, you can then start to enjoy printing. Please be assured I am in no way connected or sponsered by the product. Also I bought a A5 printer because I was totally feed up with printers which were not rigid, were untidy and use silly wheels on aluminium profiles and arcrilic parts that were not particularly well made and flex all the time... plus I dont like spiders if you get my clue!
  • DennisHobbsDennisHobbs Posts: 2Member
    Just another thought...

    What brand of material are you using, I only know about PLA but I do know that quality differs between brands, when I first got my printer I used the PLA that was suplied and got stringing everywhere, I then selected my drum of Rigid Ink (which I think is extremaly overpriced but is good) and I have no strining using the default settings in the Cura software that came with my printer BUT I am printing at 190 using the standard profile. I have used Velleman PLa and thats good and also 3D Printz usually printing at the sugested speeds and 190-195 heat with a bed temprature of approx 50.

    current print project is a V8 Engine from thingiverse 200 hours of printing should test my A5!!!!!

    Im no expert yet but hope my advice is of use
  • seafianseafian Posts: 20🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hello all,
    I'm a new member in this community, live in Austria and do own a new JG Aurora A5 from Gearbest and I am still quite happy with this machine.
    I initially started with printing items with the supplied PLA like calibration cube and ended up with a deviation of 0,02 to 0,05 from the 20mm edge length, which was quite impressive for me. Further items were DaHai's Blowhard 3000 cooling duct, calibration cat, tube mount, which came out with nice surface.
    Currently I'm printing cable chain elements for guiding the X motor cable string.

    Before purchase and during shipping time of the printer I tried to look into every information I was able to find on the A5. I found Samuel's and DaHai's videos very helpful - Thanks, Guys.

    Issues I had so far was a leaking hotend (leak on top of heating block) when molted PLA drops ran down the heating block. This was fixed by disassembling, cleaning and remounting and tightening the heating block, nozzle etc.

    During transport the printer seems to have got some load on top of the box, because the top of the control box case showed scratches where the 4 heatbed clips holding the glass plate on the hotbed are located. Some better packing or a cardboard stripe between case and heatbed might help prevent that. 

    Another issue I have is the reaction of the touch panel on operating it, but I put this in a new topic if I don't find it mentioned in another thread.

    Just for curiosity I downloaded JayJoes holder.stl and might give it a trial print to see if I get similar results as shown by his pictures. Will report if I get any results with the holder

    I'm still a real noob on 3D printing, but my start with the A5 wasn't bad at all.

    ... and I still plan to do some of the modifications like silencing the motors and others ....
    Have fun
    Cheers, Andreas
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • seafianseafian Posts: 20🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited July 2018
    Hi JayJoe,
    I printed your holder.stl on my new A5 printer and I think, it came out quite decent. I used Cura for slicing and for one or the other reason it was placed vertically in Cura. I (try to) attach a photo with the result.
    You will notice a few issues on overhangs, where some strings curl, but I think that's normal at such overhangs, isn't it?
    The very rough and stringed surface I noticed on your images I didn't get.
    I didn't change from Cura's default parameters, if required I can post my Cura settings.

    So there should be hope for your machine, that we should get it to print better. If you need to compare some parameters between your and my machine pls let me know. I didn't yet start in modifying motor drivers, they still are in shipping.

    BTW: the PLA is the sample PLA JGAurora provided

    Post edited by seafian on
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    It has been a while since I last used my JGAURORA A5. And now I have clogged 3D printer after few extrusion.

    I have checked the nozzle and throat. It clogs BEFORE the throat. What I should do now? :(

    This 3D printer never stop giving me problems. Sucks.
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    HELP! :(
  • JayJoeJayJoe Posts: 34🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I am having clogged of this thing. Sigh. 
Sign In or Register to comment.