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JGAURORA JGMaker Magic Promotion


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JGAURORA A5S Deals


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Print quality is better than A5 out of the box, and it only takes 10 minutes to assemble.
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New JGAurora A1 Owner

Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 85🌟 Super Member 🌟
I finally bought the a new A1 a couple of weeks ago. It's been a hectic Christmas but I finally got it all put together today and I'm doing a test print of the little Buddha guy that came on the SD card.

Time to interject a little backstory. I bought a Printrbot LC V2 5 or 6 years ago but have never been 100% happy with the prints and would often run into issues with the build area. Though it was fun and I produced quite a few useful prints, it was time to upgrade. I have had my eye on an A5 for a while but recently noticed Samuel's videos about the A5S and A1 on YouTube. The thicker steel of the A1 was appealing to me and with a bit of searching, I was finally able to find it for the right price.

Previously, I have done a lot of my work in ABS but a fair amount also in PLA. I have had a lot of luck printing with high bed temperatures on kapton tape for ABS and on blue painter's tape for PLA. I tried TPE with no luck, partly I think, because of the way the filament feeds in on the Printrbot but also, I'm beginning to think, because I needed to slow down my extrusion. I do nearly all my design in OpenSCAD since I find it makes it easy to get precise dimensions and I am familiar with CSG from playing with POV-Ray. My control software has been Repetier Host using Slic3r (the Printrbot has no control panel) with direct USB printing (which has cost me a couple of prints). It will be interesting to see how my flow changes with the A1.

I have a few things on Thingiverse of various complexity. https://www.thingiverse.com/Richy_T/designs

Comments

  • rgstoneinscrgstoneinsc Posts: 4Member
    I too am interested in an A1.......your post seemed to focus on another printer......have you now enough experience to have an opinion about the A1 regarding the various filaments you have tried?
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 85🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I like it a lot. It's a great printer. I'm having a bit of trouble with bed adhesion with ABS and the black diamond so I think I'm going to try plain glass and slurry.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,884Administrator
    edited June 14
    @Richy_T
    hey, I had problems too initially. I put what worked for me on the wiki here:

    https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/bed-adhesion
    Hopefully it helps. Most people said it helped them.

    I agree though that when you change materials, you need to do a thorough clean to ensure the next material sticks.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 85🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited June 15
    I need to get an enclosure too. What bed temperature do you run the bed at for ABS? I tried 95 and it took a while to get up there.

    I was surprised Cura turned the fan on. I'll need to knock that on the head.
    Post edited by Richy_T on
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 85🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I used to print a lot of ABS on my printrbot. That was with a kapton tape and I'd wipe it down with acetone to give it a very thin smear of ABS from whatever was left over from the previous print.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,884Administrator
    I aim for 108C or higher, but I havent done enough abs to say what is best. The power supply does struggle to get it to 115C. For the sake of avoiding unexpected thermal safety system errors, and causing a print to fail, I'd suggest to stay at 110C or below, unless printing in an enclosure.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,884Administrator
    ABS juice is a great trick. Hopefully not as required for the diamond glass, and acetone can damage the bed coating.
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 85🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited June 15
    Do you print ABS? It's a bit different from PLA. I haven't seen much description of printing on the black diamond with it.

    Have we had proper confirmation of acetone damage? If it is frit, as you say, it should be fairly impervious. Unfortunately, it's a bit expensive to replace to do experimenting with.
    Post edited by Richy_T on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,884Administrator
    I've done a little bit on the A5, but not a lot. Worked fine for me, I just had to make sure I cleaned the bed well when changing between materials.

    Yeah, I agree - it should be. But I've had enough people tell me that it damaged it that I'm not really sure what to believe. It definitely has silicon carbide in it, but I'm not sure exactly if that's all that is in it, or if there is some kind of resin or other polymer used as well...
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 85🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited June 15
    Any chance you could get the jgaurora people to send you one for some testing? It would make a good video for your channel.

    I was trying to print something about six inches in diameter with six protrusions. The edges started curling up by layer 2. I tried taping down the brim but it was obvious I had lost adhesion completely a couple of layers later and my layer alignment was shot.

    I only bought 200g of this ABS (it's a color-changing one) so don't have a lot to play with. Though I have cheaper ABS filaments. I didn't really like the color anyway though. I think I'm going to print in PLA but it's intended to be in contact with heated items so I wanted to go with something a bit more suitable for that.

    I'll give it another go with an enclosure and no fan and if that doesn't help, glass is cheap and slurry is easy.
    Post edited by Richy_T on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,884Administrator
    edited June 15
    While it would be fun, at the moment I simply don't have time for anything extra at this stage, sorry.
    S3D lets you do multi-layer brims. One of the few advantages I use it for occasionally. Otherwise you probably will need an enclosure - or perhaps flip the glass, and go kapton tape and abs juice.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
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