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E3D V6 all metall heatblock mod.

Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
Hi,

did anyone think about to change the JG A5 heat block to a E3D V6 one? (allmetal)
With that head which is nearly the same as the JGs. it would be passible to get up to nearly 300Β°C. even 400"C with the PT100

The only problem would be the savety shut down at 260Β°C I think. Is it passible to turn that up?

It would be awesome because than the E3D silicon isolators would also fit what makes the temperature ot the hot end stabil and the JG could print ABS and PC easy.

I think that would be an improvement, wouldnt it?

Comments

  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The V6 throat is M7 that does not fit, you would need M6 so an E3D V5 would fit.

    I actually installed a cheap chinese clone, but the Extruder was not powerful enough to push the filament through the long bowden + all metall throat.

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,235Administrator
    edited January 2
    Yes - if you replace the hotend with one free of PTFE, it is easy to change the thermal temperature limit in the firmware on the A5/A3S. The hard part is finding a compatible low-friction all metal heatbreak.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    V6 Heatblock and V5/V6 Throat M6 from Aliexpress that would fit.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5Pcs-E3D-Heat-Break-Hotend-Throat-M6-M6-For-1-75-mm-3-0mm-Filament-Stainless/32519676577.html

    Realy? Why does the metall throat need more force?
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    ok these are probably the same i bought for 1$ a piece from bangood

    as far as I know this must be wrong, they cant fit V5 and V6 cause they are different, but they look like V5 ones so they are good for your A5

    The lower end is always M6. The upper end is the same for V5 and JGaurora but M7 for V6 and clones.

    The reason PTFE is used is that is has exceptionally low friction, metal cant compete there.

    You can try it it doesnt cost that much, but I endet up converting the A5 to direct drive with a Titan Extruder, now those throats work^^


  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    AS PS:
    Someone here advertised those to me:
    https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/spare-parts/products/thermal-tube-upgrade-for-makerbot-replicator-1-2

    But I did not yet receive them so I cant tell you if they are any good!
    Thanked by 1Der_Muck
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Thats passible. It seems they had a V6 version before with a M6x1 thread all over, I found a blueprint of it. Maybe it was a previous version.
    The head must be a cupper head as my search found out. 
    So it would be a set of an cupper V6 hotendblock, nozzle depends on the max. temp. you want to use. The 400Β°C heat patrone, a PT100 sensor with amp., and your swiss therminal tube. 
    That would boost the A5 hehe
    but next would be a 230V heat bed haha man that would create heat problems in the lower case.
    I think its better to build a new printer with those parts with a stabil bed slide and an enclose. Would be better invest than a never finished A5 with next and next problems to solve. 
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Yes I dont think an enclosure for the A5 is practical, and printing at more than 280C without an enclosure probably makes no sense. I will try Nylon with my A5, to print the parts of my next project:

    I will build myself a Hypercube Evolution during this year. With enclosure, 230V Heatbed and probably a dual bowden extruder setup :-)
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited January 4
    I also thought about building a Hypercube but the problem i have with that are the long belts. I think in the end, the chance to have the same or worse quality than the JG now has let me think about a self made concept of an printer but with the use of those aluminium profiles of the hypercube.
    There are many high quality linear guidance and other parts with that system. I dont like those 6mm belts at all, they are to thin for a double and direct extruder.  

    P.S. Yes, a enclose is not working well on the JG because you have to mount the extruder out of the enclose and install a all metal head on it include fan ducts. Its simply not made for it. Also a BLtouch is not made for that temperatur and the ir probe has a elko to near on the bed. Short life time is a garantie.
    Post edited by Der_Muck on
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Is the max. hot end temperatur only limit in the marlin firmware or is it limit in the lcd firmware to? (preheat temp.)
    I dont realy want to change the firmware in the lcd board.
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    it is limited in the comm edition lcd firmware to 265C

    but, that is not relevant, when you print the gcode sets the temp, you just cant raise it manually on the display over 265
    Thanked by 1Der_Muck
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ahhh now I understand it, thought it would limit the print temp to.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The work is done, it took me very long because there is a bug on my JG what makes the Z axis very loud when I move it. I had that 2 times and I dont know what it cause. I changed the Z motor to 900mA with SPI via PF and that set it quiet. 

    Firstly I moved the filament in and had my first nozzle jam ever on my printer. Dont know what it cause, I think there was something in the new coldend, throat or nozzle. (I changed everything to be able to change to the old setup very quick)
    The second nozzle worked and I had the feeling to reduce the extruder temp 15Β°C and retraction to 3mm, sliced the retraction test and started printing.

    I was veryyyyyy surprised that the print with the changed setup worked without stringing at all and finaly ended with the best result of stringing prints I ever reached. Even with 6mm retraction with the old setup I had stringing with the PETG.
    Absolutly no stringing and only some liiiitle changes are need now. 

    The extruder heat up to 200Β°C only takes 50sek what is realy extreme thought with the CU head it will take same time as with the old setting or more.

    All in all, PETG is very good printable with the all metal heatend. Hope PLA will be that to. ASA will be also tested and ofcause ABS to. Next step is maybe a enclose for my JG thats the only thing what limits me now. (the heatbed i will not change)

    @Prokktor
    Thanks for the throat tip, the throat works very well, no problem with friction or something. Fits very good.
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited February 5
    Very nice, I will order that thoat for myself too, but I have tons of cheap ptfe and all metal throats lying arround so...

    Did you go direct drive?

    My cheap all metal throats do jam with some PLAs, so I change to ptfe whenever I print PLA. 
    Post edited by Prokktor on
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    No I dont see the benefit to change to the direct drive, it simply adds to much weight to the X axis, it will end in gosting like the Y axis does with the bed. I will change all belts to stronger once, it seems that the original are little flexible, I see little gosting because of the Y axis even with a thighter made belt.
    A hotend has to be as light it can be to work fine at fast speed and so is the prinzip of the A5. A DD system must be more stabil and with a bigger belt I think.

    With my system now, the retract is reduced from 5 to under 2mm I never got so less stringing with the original PTFE.
    Try using the capricorn XS tube in the throat, it takes a little bit more temp than the cheap tubes can get.
    I had some filament blocks because of a wrong slicer setting (it only pushed and pulled the filament forth and back lol ) but when the filament was stuck, a light pull on the filament got it loose and it was back in the game, the microswiss throat is realy great ;)

    You are right, PLA is very sticky on metal throats but it shouldnt the problem with the ms throat. 
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok I am pretty happy with my direct drive setup. Printing all the practical parts at speed 80 if I need beauty I am going slower.

    Sadly the capricorn does not fit my V6 clone throats :-(

  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 93🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Realy? Why is that? :open_mouth:

    Yes I can understand that, its simply so that I think the construction of the JG isnt build for a DD. I have mod the frame to get it more stable. Original its simply not for a serious usage. I mostly like the way to go and build a new printer but for a new printer, I would not use self printed parts, I would like to use milled alu parts.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3382718   That printer looks so nice but has to be moded to :D  230V heatbed 300x300 or even 400x400 :D that would be soooo awesome.

    Try to use the MS throat, its awesome. I test it with PETG, ASA and ABS, every retract is max. 3mm not more. It realy works :)
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