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Finally I've gone direct drive, but...

MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
edited January 3 in Modifications & Upgrades
Ok, finally I was successuful to convert this damn printer as direct drive, but... Now it doesn't print anything good. It tries to print, but the filament goes out bad. And, when I extrude it for initialization, it goes out as a blob instead as like a filament. For instance, I didn't put any teflon tubing inside. What could have happened?
Post edited by Matt on

Comments

  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    You have to give us more information:

    how did you connect the extruder to the x assembly?
    What heatbreak are you using?

    A list of components from the filament sensor to the nozzle that are in contact to the filament would probably be really helpful.
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited January 4
    Hi. The extruder is connected to the aluminium body with a two-ends thread (with a central bolt to tighten it), which is 8mm diam from the smaller side and 10mm diam from the wider: the inner hole is some 6mm diam, no teflon tube inside. As for the rest, I didn't changed anything: the heatbreak is the one which is mounted by default in the default aluminium body, the components are just the original ones, the nozzle is the original v6.
    For instance, I tried to re-level the bed, thinking that the operations had nullified the previous asset: some progress occurred, but nothing special. I added also a piece of the standard bowden tube to the connecting thread, but no use. Perhaps the real problem is in some other issue.
    Post edited by Matt on
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited January 5
    Hmm ok there should be PTFE tubing from the extruder to the upper end of the heatbreak, if you use any other material there, you just make it hard for the extruder without any benefits.

    You should get that to work and then continue:
    I am guessing you want to user higher temps for printing stuff beyond ABS?
    The teflon tube you want to  get rid of is the one inside you heatbreak.

    So you need to order a 26mm M6 PTFE free heatbreak.

    You can do that from Ali Express/Bangood for 1$ or from Micro Swiss for probably much better quality.
    Post edited by Prokktor on
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok. I suppose the heatbreak would be something like a throath.
    • How to remove it from the aluminium body? It's screwable?
    • I do not print abs, just pla
    Why the bowden system worked without any fusses and arrangements?
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Yes heatbreak = throat = some other word, I dont know which is best to use^^

    There is a very small screw in the side that keeps it in place, loosen that one then screw it out.
    If you dont need nozzle temps beyond 245C you can and should use the ptfe throat, you just emphasized you do not use ptfe and so I assumed you need higher temps.

    I still dont get how your connection works, but I still think there is something wrong between your extruder and the heatbreak.

  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The connections are just the ones which by default made work the original bowden extrusion system: just added a longer cable for the stepper.
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ah ok you used the original parts ok, but you wrote that there is no ptfe tube inside, I do not understand how that can work.
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The ptfe tube, you mean the one of the throath or the one which held the filament when the machine was still bowden?
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    The original tube, I think you should have cut it very short and used it to connect the extruder to the x carriage.
    But the original post reads like you did something different.
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok. In your opinion, how had I had acted rather?
  • ProkktorProkktor Posts: 146🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Sorry I am really trying to help you but english is not my native tonge and you use very few words to describe your setup, I simply do not get it.

    Maybe if you use more words or make a drawing I can see where the problem is.
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    :(
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,754Administrator
    @Matt - I agree, a diagram of how you have constructed your direct drive would be great. A cross section of the filament pathway would be helpful. You need to have a PTFE liner to prevent jamming.

    More info here

    Here's some example design diagrams:




  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hi Sam. Well, I don't know how mine does look inside. The ones of the pic above are a cross of a typical bowden, I guess. 
    Perhaps the problem is that the gear is mounted upon a aluminium body which is "designed" (how the JG crew ay, as yoy now...) for bowden-type extrusion typology? But I guess that, otherways, the other guys who tried to arrange a DD had been getting my same issues... So, perhaps the solution resides into another problem.
    Anyway, should I push the ptfe (I would cut a piece from the one which carried the filament in the bowden setup, I guess) until the mouth of the heatblock? And, besides, I cannot know whether it is arrived or not.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,754Administrator
    Yes, I would recommend using the PTFE to guide the filament as much as possible.
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Ok, I'll try it when I'll be back home. TY for now.
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited April 22
    Success! An add of 2 millimeters (or so) of PTFE worked! Now it prints! I'm now the proud owner of a DD JGAurora! Which is what the brand must build by default, if only they weren't so overproud to not admit that their "designed" current version is lame as f@ck...
    Post edited by Matt on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,754Administrator
    edited April 22
    Congrats!
    Direct drive is one reason why I love my JGAurora Z-603S. I've asked them about adding it to other models too :smile:
    Thanked by 1Matt
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • MattMatt Posts: 82🌟 Super Member 🌟
    TY pal: it is also thanks to you that I was successful in modifying this printer: which loses at least 1/2 of its potentiality in remaining bowden! The next step will be to add anti-salmon skin (which is  another thing that I highlighted to them, only to receive the answer that they "don't know" what it is...): I'll do it once I'll be again at home.
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