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JGAurora A5S Breathing/Pulsing Bed


I have the JGAurora A5S for about 2 months with zero issues. However, I have come upon a much stranger issue than I have ever dealt with. The bed seems to be going up and down by ± 0.1-0.05mm for no apparent reason. I want the distance between nozzle and bed to be 0.1mm  

As shown in this video: 

Any help would be very much appreciated. 


  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator

    I don't know of any solution sorry, and I don't know why it seems to be affecting some and not others. I wonder if it is an issue with the adhesion between the heater plate, and the glass top?
  • SomeoneYouLikeSomeoneYouLike Posts: 38Member
    @Samuel Pinches
    Do you think I should try replacing the heater plate and glass top? Or maybe adding like some tape or super glue between the two. This shouldn't be happening because of the clips that is installed on the four corners. 
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    Maybe - I'm really not sure sorry, but it could be worth a shot...
  • SomeoneYouLikeSomeoneYouLike Posts: 38Member
    Update: Seems like lowering the bed temperature from 65C to 55C helped a bit. However, there is still a bit of breathing going on. Contacted JGAurora support and they pretty much told me to suck it up.  @Samuel Pinches

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    edited March 11
    Unfortunately, its an inherent problem for all printers with PCB heaters, and it gets worse the larger the bed gets. I'm sorry there is no easy solution, I wish I knew why it was worse on some printers than others.
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • SomeoneYouLikeSomeoneYouLike Posts: 38Member
    @Samuel Pinches
    Is there a upgrade I can apply to make it double sided PCB heater to reduce the "breathing" effect?
  • cs2000cs2000 Posts: 56🌟 Super Member 🌟
    All that board is is a bog standard PCB with an LED and a thermistor on it. It wouldn't be hugely difficult to design an exact replacement in a PCB design software, buy the components (you dont even need the LED) and make your own bed thats using a much thicker PCB substrate, even perhaps order is with a metal back (like is commonly used in LED light PCB's).

    If its something people are interested in, let me know, i do have some experience in this field. Of course, it wont 100% eliminate it, at the end of the day, you have a (relativity) large surface area which is heating and cooling, this will expand and contract due to basic material properties and were looking at getting tolerances within 0.01mm which is very small ! but you can minimise it by having a more rigid structure to begin with.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    With the custom firmware we are working on, we can use PWM to control the bed heater at a faster rate, so rather than taking big breaths, it takes many smaller short breaths. Maybe this will help reduce the severity of the breathing effect.
  • SomeoneYouLikeSomeoneYouLike Posts: 38Member
    Yea that should definitely help with bed leveling. I think those long big breaths cause some instability in the glass/heating plate. However, having shorter ones should stabilize it more. 
  • SomeoneYouLikeSomeoneYouLike Posts: 38Member
    UPDATE: If anyone else is having the same issues that I have, I recommend using the custom firmware currently being built by the community. It pretty much completely fixed the issue for me by heating the bed with short heat breaths rather long ones. 
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
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