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What may be the cause for a rough bottom layer?

The bottom layer on my prints are a bit rough. Intially they were baby smooth. I thought this may be the leveling being too close/far from the nozzel. 

I tried adjusting the level several times, but it appears the center of my glass plate is a bit warped and the center point touched the nozzle if I adjust the corners correctly.

I then tried using glue stick to help with adhesion despite the not perfect level. It has had better results but not perfect.

Any thoughts?


  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,060Administrator
    edited July 28
    Sorry, but it's unfortunately not uncommon. Center point always tends to be higher since the metal heater plate "domes" as it heats, due to it being a one sided design.

    Option 1: install custom firmware and use mesh bed levelling
    Option 2: level manually (sheet of paper, levelling nuts) for the region of bed you are using
    Option 3: Use a slow, thick first layer height, and put up with poor quality bottom layers.
    Thanked by 1WidgetElgie
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • WidgetElgieWidgetElgie Posts: 17Member
    Thanks. At least I know why. I will try some of your suggestions.
  • chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member
    WidgetElgie, I had same issue with mine, I used a perimeter of painters tape on the outside of my glass and that helped a bit with the center warp (guessing because it warms the bed more evenly) also the custom firmware with mesh bed leveling set at .004" feeler guage has made a tremendous difference on my prints. Make sure your bed and z axis are trammed, they have a file for a jig on thingiverse. Says for a5 but has worked on my a5s.
    Thanked by 1WidgetElgie
  • WidgetElgieWidgetElgie Posts: 17Member
    @chainbreaker2012 Thank you for your information. Unfortunately, I just now saw this post. I was having some successful prints for a while with a very careful series of bed leveling and test prints, but the front right corner still has the issue. 

    In general that isn't a huge deal to avoid printing there, but it would be nice just to have it work equally well all over the board.I will try your tape and the jig yo provided this weekend and see if it proves to be helpful. 

    I also saw a simple upgrade on the forum to add cork to the bottom of the heated bed. I was thinking of trying this as well as possibly applying some stiffeners to the underside to minimize warping, though I doubt there will be much space for this.

    Are there any other great prints for quality of life improvements for the A5? I have seen several on thingiverse for other printer brands, I haven't thought to look specifically for my printer.
    Thanked by 1chainbreaker2012
  • WidgetElgieWidgetElgie Posts: 17Member
    edited August 8
    Fantastic! Thank you!

    @Samuel Pinches Are the mods in any sort of order like "Most Recommended to Least"
    Post edited by WidgetElgie on
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,060Administrator
    edited August 9
    For A5S, mine is still 100% stock hardware 🤷‍♂️

    Well... 99% since I removed that jgaurora plate covering the x axis 

    oh yeah, and I upgraded the bearings and the firmware

    Thanked by 1WidgetElgie
    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • WidgetElgieWidgetElgie Posts: 17Member
    I think I definitely want to keep it as stock as possible. What benefits does the bearing and firmware upgrade provide? 
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,060Administrator
    Please see my A5S YouTube review for a demonstration of the low quality OEM bearings. They can cause layer shifting if they jam.
    Thanked by 1WidgetElgie
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,060Administrator
    Firmware upgrade gives you mesh bed levelling and reliable octoprint support
    Thanked by 1WidgetElgie
  • chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member
    @WidgetElgie here is what I did to fix the center warping on mine. It hasn't eliminated it but it did help alot

    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
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