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tpu settings?

chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
anyone had any success? I picked up some Tony tpu and cant get it to do really anything. just get blobs out of the nozzle onto the bed even with it set to .15mm first layer. (normally run .12 with pla) if you have had success please let me know your settings such as initial layer height and extruder coefficient. It will atleast give me a base to start from. meanwhile I will keep playing with it. If I do I will post up what I find works well. would love to see a post with people's settings with various materials that others can tune their individual settings from.

Comments

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,176Administrator
    Make sure you sloooooowww down everything heaps. Like, 15-20mm/s. Retraction off.
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  • chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Awsome sounds great ill give it a go. That's about the same i run my petg at atm. Whats our Max bed temp set at in the firmware?
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,176Administrator
    115C I think... but the powersupply can only actually reach around 109C max anyway.
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  • chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    ok, I was trying to get mine up to 100 but it said something failed at around 80c started beeping and recommended i shut the printer off lol. havent tried to go to that high since then.
  • chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Oh and I got tpu printing great! it was surprisingly cura causing it. I transferred my settings from cura to prusaslicer and the problems have basically gone away.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,176Administrator
    Awesome - would love to see some photos!
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  • chainbreaker2012chainbreaker2012 Posts: 30Member, 🌟 Super Member 🌟
    left is what I was having issues with right is new w/ prusaslicer
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
  • GandyGandy Posts: 57🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Recently, I also changed from cura to prusaslicer with a visible benefit for my PLA prints. Now I want to try TPU. Would you mind sharing your slicer settings for a point to start from or at least a few tips on what settings need extra care compared to printing PLA?
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Just tried 215/60 @25. Got the brim done OK but then it gave up on the rest of the first layer with the filament popping out the side. Does anyone have a good STL for a filament guide for between the hobbed gear and the bowden inlet?
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Well, even 215/60 @10 isn't cutting it. The brim's looking good up until it fails. I think I definitely need that guide.
  • GandyGandy Posts: 57🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Are you using the original A5 extruder with bowden tube? Where exactly does the filament pop out the side, can you share a photo of how it fails?
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    It's actually an A1. It pops out between the knurled nut and the part where it goes into the tube. I can get a picture. I'll restart the job.
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Hmm. I'd left it popped out...


  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Currently have my 10mm/s print cranked down to 50% and we'll see how it goes. I have a design for a guide roughed out but I may be waiting a while before I get a chance to print it.
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Well, here's my first successful TPU print. It's not the smoothest. I think with running it so slow, the filament "blobs" out. Hopefully I'll be able to run a little faster when I add my filament guide in. Also the very top was a bit blobby and it has a hole but overall, I'm at least heading in the right direction, I think.


  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    edited September 10
    Well, I printed the guide and I believe it seems to help. First go, the filament got bunched up inside and broke the top clip but I got that reinforced and actually added the planned ptfe tube. I do need to tweak it once more then I'll post a link to the STL.



    Cranking the temperature up to 230, I was able to sustain 15mm/s quite happily. The model is not quite as clear though the physical quality appears to be about the same with a bit less meltiness on top. I got a hole again this time too but I think I just need to increase the infill density. (newest on right)



    Now I can get on with my real reason for buying TPU - printing a plug for the bath. Though I'm not sure red was the wise choice.
    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
    Post edited by Richy_T on
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    For what it's worth, the clip also made threading the filament just a touch easier too so I think it's not only for TPU.
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 2,176Administrator
    Thank you for sharing your results @Richy_T , would you be happy to share the A1 filament guide too? Cheers, Sam
  • Richy_TRichy_T Posts: 117🌟 Super Member 🌟
    Absolutely. As mentioned, I just wanted to tweak it a little first. Here is a link to it on Thingiverse.


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  • Charly3Charly3 Posts: 35🌟 Super Member 🌟
    To get rid of the fine vibrations the fans along my printhead caused, IΒ΄ve reprinted the fan and IR-Holder device with cheap D 58 Shore TPU from OWL-SAT.

    My settings on titan aero with volcano heaterblock:
    • 0,4mm nozzle with 0,12mm layer height
    • all Heater-Temperatures 230Β° C
    • bed first Layer 85Β° C rest 80Β° C - could have been somewhat higher, but didnΒ΄t want to ruin my magnetic bed surface
    • all speeds to 50 mm/sec - except first layer all 10 mm/sec and 4 layer to ramp up to full speed
    • fan 25% on first layer - ramp up to 100% on 4th layer
    • retraction 3mm with 45mm/sec retract / prime speed (direct drive mod)
    • tree support on and 5 lines brim to give a better hold to the support, print itself would not have needed brim

    At all my first TPU print that really shows resilence without splitting into layers under pressure.The partly harsh triangled structure - especially in the lower part of the round air duct - originates from the fact, that I lost the original 3D Data and hat to step back to a STL Version to do all the outstanding finetuning.  I may redo the sketch while integrating some light solution..


    Thanked by 1Samuel Pinches
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