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Bad adhesion plate

MihawkMihawk Posts: 5Member
Hi, I think I have a very bad luck with this jgaurora... continuous problems... This time, problems comes from plate, because PLA ahave a very bad adhesion on plate... I don't know what is the real problem when I print, I use 60° C of plate and 200° C...  I adjusted the plate 2952242354825 times and I tryed to see a lot of tutorials and wiki but nothing.. Someone can help me please?
Post edited by Mihawk on

Comments

  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    Hi @Mihawk ,
    Can you please try these tips:


    Let me know after you have tried all of them how you go.

    Cheers,
    Sam

  • itou31itou31 Posts: 3Member
    Hello,
    I also have several adhesion issue on my previous print. I had to "brim" a lot, and also re-level the bed after each print.
    So I decided to update LCD firmware to have babystepping : that is a great feature ! (note : I have marlin 1.1.8C).
    That helps me to correct the Z on the skirt/brim before printinh the first model layer.
    I also noticed that there sometime a gripping issue on the Z right motor, so the Z itself shift horizontally compared to the bed. I had to add grease but also do some Z movements (0.1 and then 1mm) before doing a home.
    Lately, I received an ENDER 3 Pro and tested the magnetic bed, and it stick very well, and no pb after several small prints. So I decided to buy the magnetic sheet for CR-10, it has perfect dimension for the A5 bed.
    Now, all my prints stick very well on the bed (and even too much).
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    edited February 7
    Thanks for the suggestion itou31 - I have also tried a cheap adhesive magnetic sheet, and found it works quite well for PETG and ABS. Although, I think I still prefer the black diamond coating on the A5 overall, even though it can be quite fussy with requiring zero fingerprints, it is much easier to remove the prints afterwards.

    CHEAP 3D Printer Magnetic Bed Platform Upgrade - Review


    Post edited by Samuel Pinches on
  • michalko99michalko99 Posts: 7Member
    Hello. I am printing on reversed stock glass. Since beginning I found useless diamond coating as nothing was holding on it. As I had Anet A8 with glass before, I am using it here again-apply coat of cheap ultrastrong hairspray(Lidl,Kaufland,Aldi...) before printing and even ABS hold nicely(at 100deg) . But for PLA it works nice at 60deg. 
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    @michalko99 - bed adhesion problems are very common for everyone not familiar with the glass plate. There is a stickied topic in this category called "FAQ: Getting Started & Troubleshooting". There's a link there to the bed adhesion instructions on the wiki. The glass coating is actually excellent and a lot less hassle to use, rather than having to muck around with glue sticks or sprays. The most important thing is to keep it clean, wipe down with IPA after each print. I hope that helps you get started.
  • Der_MuckDer_Muck Posts: 264🌟 Super Member 🌟
    I agree, there is no better plate than the diamond plate. It works realy everytime. Some petg filaments will downgrade the life time but it works. I even print ABS and ASA on it and it holds without a problem.
    Mostly the problem is to high first layers. 
  • BigtriverBigtriver Posts: 9Member
    I use geckotek sheets - they really work wonders for adhesion and last long time - and protect the bed as well...
  • Samuel PinchesSamuel Pinches Posts: 1,983Administrator
    I'm going to link to this new thread for further discussion on alternate print surfaces: https://jgauroraforum.com/discussion/790/print-surface-discussion-bed-adhesion/
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